How to make a Shock Glove

Earlier this year, I was reading a Popular Science magazine and I noticed an article about a new technology. Weapons designers were working on an armored gauntlet that would fire Taser darts with a laser site, for use in Law Enforcement.

Now that is cool. Having recalled that recently, I did some research. Last week I showed you how to make a Taser device out of a camera. Today, we'll be modifying it into a glove that will allow you to punch thieves and burglars with electric power.

Now, the original design involved simply strapping the capacitor to the glove. But there are a few issues with that. First of all, it would be all too easy to bump the capacitor and cause it to short accidentally. It would also not be effective if you were actually fighting a burglar: Hit too hard and the capacitor would fall off.

This design let's you hit anything as hard as you want, and still deliver the powerful shock of the camera capacitor. 

Ready?

First of all, you will need to determine if you are right or left handed. I really hope you already know this. I am right handed, so I will be using that for an example.

Buy a Right (or left) leather work glove and a right insulated, rubber glove. The rubber glove should be similar, possibly slightly smaller, size to the work glove. 

Or, if you want a really good glove, buy some fireproof Kevlar gloves on EBay for $40.

Now, insert the insulated glove inside the work glove. This is a safety precaution to avoid shorting the capacitor into your hand. You can either secure the opening of the glove(s) with duct tape, or superglue them together, your choice.

Now, you will need your Taser circuit. Cover the entire thing, except the pins, in electrical tape. Again, mark where the trigger is for future use. Remove the battery during the duration of this project. Short the capacitor with a screwdriver in case it was charged.

Either glue or securely tape the Circuit to the outside of the glove. Make sure that the trigger is facing upward and the capacitor is facing towards the fingers, but not too close. 

Solder a wire to each pin on the capacitor. Once the solder is cooled, wrap the pin and metal parts of the wire in electrical tape.

Grab two sheets of aluminum foil.

Fold each sheet into a strip of aluminum foil the size of a finger, and half the length. Take a strip and tape it to your POINTER and RING finger with electrical tape. Keep as much foil showing as possible, and make sure the foil is extending from just above the knuckle down to at least the first joint. This is to avoid, again, and accidental shorting of the capacitor. Lastly, the foil must be only on the front of the fingers.

Take the wires you soldered to the pins and SECURELY tape them to top of the foil, above the knuckle. Make sure the wire is connected firmly! This is essential.

You are finished! Put on the glove, plug in the battery, and press the trigger to charge it. Go punch a light pole. Seriously, hit something metal, making sure to touch the two foil strips to the metal. You probably will see some sparks or hear the capacitor sending the electricity through the light post.

Remember, this is a dangerous device. Do not use it unless your life or property is threatened. I am not responsible for any damage caused. Never touch the two foil strips or capacitor pins.

Enjoy!

Questions? Use the comment function!

How to make an EMP

You are sitting on your laptop reading the news. Suddenly, your laptop goes blank and the power shuts off. You attempt to turn it on but to no avail. You turn on your cell phone to find that the memory has been wiped. Nothing works, and you have no idea what is happening.

An EMP weapon could make that nightmare a reality.

EMPs (Electromagnetic Pulse) are released with Atomic Weapons. A nuclear weapon detonated high in the atmosphere could cause a widespread devastating EMP. Scientist are also researching a weapon that would provide only the electronic slaughtering power, minus the gamma rays.

But what better way to understand this technology than to make one yourself?

DISCLAIMER: This project is for entertainment purposes only. I am not responsible for any damage caused to Electronics by this device.

Ready to make an EMP?

I have two methods for you.

Method #1, Handheld

Handheld EMP?! I thought they only came in massive bomb types?

If you knew anything about EMPs before reading this, that's what you will think. Well, it is possible.

Amazingly, you don't even have to build a complex circuit. The entire circuit part of this project is already provided, pre-built. It costs around $5. Yes, the disposable camera strikes again!

To start your EMP project, you need a homemade Taser. This can be easily built from that vicious little tourist device above me. Scroll down a bit to find my guide on how to make one. It should literally take around 5 minutes.

Familiarize yourself with all the parts on the Camera's circuit board.

Now, you will need a few other parts. Go buy some insulated copper wire (the thicker the wire, the more powerful the EMP) and an iron rod. You can also use a non-metal rod, but this will be less powerful.

Take the copper wire and wrap it around the rod, TIGHTLY. As tight as possible. Once you are finished there will be a wire sticking out on either end.

Take the Camera Circuit (Taser) and solder the ends of the wires to the Capacitor. Make sure it is shorted first and the battery is out, unless you want to end up like the criminals mentioned in the Taser guide.

Now, GET OUTSIDE. Go far out into your backyard. Ensure that you don't have ANYTHING electronic in your pockets. Ensure that you don't have ANYTHING electronic in your hands. Heck, ensure you don't have ANYTHING electronic in your underwear, just in case. A mistake, and you may permanently break whatever you forgot to put away.

If you are using a Pacemakers or life support device, go get a hammer and smash your EMP. NEVER USE IT. You'll kill yourself. Keep this well away from anyone who has any of these devices.

Lastly, NEVER use it to interfere with other people's electronics or broadcasts. If you destroy some guy's iPhone with your EMP, you can be arrested as easily as if you took a chainsaw and destroyed it that way.

But of course you want to make sure it works. Hence why I said get outside. You aren't going to leave this awesome device sitting there not knowing if it works, are you? Of course not.

We need a guinea pig. No, not an actual guinea pig. The EMP wouldn't even affect it. A theoretical guinea pig. And the little device we are going to punish for no real reason? Meet the $0.99 Office Depot Calculator.

Look at that. Just asking for it, isn't it?

Maybe not, but it's only a dollar and is electronic. Need I say more?

Take your victim (the calculator, what were you thinking?) and place it as close to the EMP as possible without touching it. Again, ensure that you are nowhere near anything else electronic. Your EMP should have a blast radius of a few feet.

Put the battery in. Push the switch. If needed, you may want to remove the wires to charge the capacitor, but this as dangerous as you may shock yourself.

And...

No. None of that will happen. If you did everything right, you really shouldn't see anything. Once it is finished, go unplug the battery. Now, the moment of truth!

Pick up your (hopefully) dead victim and press the ON button. Does it work?

If yes, well, you did something wrong.

If no, CONGRATULATIONS! Your EMP is finished. Please keep reading for the warning at the end.

Method #2, EMP Explosive Device

This one is not re-usable. You also don't need a Camera.

First, check your local laws to find out if Firecrackers are legal. They are? Excellent!

Go to the Firecracker store and buy one.

Now, look up Neodymium Magnets. Neodymium is a Rare Earth that forms superb magnets. Buy two of them.

Make the EMP Coil rod as described in Method #1. But, instead of a solid rod, make sure that the rod is hollow and can fit the firecracker. Also, do not connect it to any Camera circuit or capacitor.

Stick the Neodymium magnets on either end of the firecracker, and connect the copper wires to the magnets. Put your electronic victim near the device (not too close or you will just blow it up). Make sure you are in a safe area with no people or electronics around. Take a match, light the fuse, and RUN! Get as far away as possible. The firecracker will explode and possibly send a neodymium magnet into your skull. However, it should generate the same EMP affect which will wipe out the Calculator.

Legal Issues. In the United States, do not use this device on any device other than your own or you risk being arrested. Keep it legal, and only break your own electronics.

Always keep the battery out when not using it, and store it away from electronics... just in case.

NEVER use this near ANYONE using a pacemaker or life support. Keep them as far away as possible, or you could hurt them.

If you have an RFID that needs killing, this works great!

Lastly, if you built an EMP Proof box and want to test it, just stick a calculator in there and fire off the EMP. If it still works, you did well.

Enjoy!

Questions? Use the comment function.

Enjoyed this Project? Tell your friends about MakeTech!

How to Extract Americium

At some point in your life, you've most likely seen a Periodic Table of Elements.

This table shows the basic building blocks of every material, anywhere in the Universe. 

Now, near the end of the Table are lots of Radioactive Elements with names after either a scientist or the location of their discovery. This, starting after Plutonium, are the synthetic elements. If you are like me, you probably assume that since they are all synthetic elements (not found in nature) they are extremely unstable and not actually tangible. And this is true, for things like Ununoctium, number 118. But you would be surprised how some of these elements are actually used.

Did you know that you have a chunk of one of these elements in your house, right now? Well, you probably do. It's called Americium.

Named after the country is was discovered in (The United States of America), Americium is a radioactive element that is found in your house. Yes, that's right. In your house. 

Want to find out if you have a secret stash of radioactive metal sitting in your hallway?

Find your smoke alarm. You are required to have one in most countries... so just look, it's there.

Pull it off the wall if you can. Flip it over. If you have an Ion Smoke Alarm, there will be a warning on the back. Seems normal, right? Especially (if like me) you live in California and every little thing has a cancer warning on it for traces of lead or something.

Take a look at the corner. 

That's the same Nuclear Hazard Symbol on Atomic Bombs and Nuclear Power plants. If you've got that on your smoke detector, congratulations, you have an extract able supply of Americium.

Want to get it out? Great!

Disclaimer: I am not responsible for any damage caused during or after this project. 

First off, get a new smoke alarm. You need another one for your own protection. Smoke Alarms save lives, trust me. Or, if you don't have an Ion Alarm, just get one. They aren't expensive. 

Confirm it has the Radiation Symbol on the back. It does? Great.

Take that screw driver that you have probably used in almost every MakeTech project and pry open that smoke alarm. Keep removing parts until you see the large canister with that same radiation symbol etched into the metal. 

Remove the top and continue to remove all the plastic and metal you find. Eventually, you will find a flat metal sheet. In the center is a disk. On that is a small, short cylinder with a star pattern on it. This should be about half the size of a US Penny or Eurozone Eurocent. Wonder what it looks like? Scroll up to the Americium Element block. The disk under it is a picture of the disk you have.

If you want confirmation, grab a Geiger counter (OK, not many people carry one of these around, but they aren't expensive and are useful). Hold it up to the tiny disk. Get a reading? Great. But you aren't finished yet.

Look into the center of the star. Use a magnifying glass if you need to. In the center of the star is a tiny, tiny black disk. THAT right there, that is the Americium. Congratulations, you have successfully extracted a rare, radioactive element from an everyday household device. I bet you are the only person on your street to have one.

Quick Nuclear Physics lesson. Radiation comes in 3 forms: Alpha Particles, Beta Particles, and Gamma Rays.

Alpha Particles are the most damaging of the trio but also the most pathetic. They can't even penetrate skin. The only problems you are ever going to have with these is ingesting it.

Beta Particles are more penetrating than Alpha Particles but slightly less damaging.

Gamma Rays are the least damaging but are also by far the worst. These things will penetrate most anything, unless you have a foot of lead or steel between you and the Gamma Rays.

Luckily for you, Americium only emits Alpha Particles. Unless you eat it... which I hope you don't... it is harmless. After all, it's in smoke alarms. Anyways, the Americium will never harm you as it cannot break your skin, but just to be safe, store it in a bottle or container. It really won't penetrate that. 

Despite having the coolest element on the block, it's useless. Sorry. There's nothing to do with this thing after you have it. But isn't that what a lot of things in life are?

Well, perhaps I spoke too soon. Americium can be used as a Neutron Generator or a Random number generator, but both are probably hard and/or impossible for you to make.

And the big question: Is this legal?

Well, in the United States, there is no specific law banning Americium. Sorry, I can't speak for any other countries, but a little research I did shows me that possessing Americium in Australia is illegal. Sorry.

One last note: Americium, being radioactive, degrades. It has a half life of over 400 years, though. It degrades into Neptunium. So, if you want to pass it on as a family heirloom, you will have a block of mostly Neptunium in a couple centuries.

Enjoy your Americium!

Questions? Use the comment function!

How to make an Taser

Sometimes you need something to defend yourself.

Imagine you are walking home from a football game. You had to park quite a ways from the stadium. On the way to your car, some insane man tries to bash your nose in for no apparent reason.

Or imagine you are in bed, happily sleeping. You hear a crash. Sure enough, some guy has broken into your home and is stealing your wallet, computer, and anything else of value.

These creeps deserve a good lesson.

Then came the Taser.

Tasers are a gun-shaped device that generates a strong electrical shock. Attaching a special cartridge to the weapon allows you to fire tiny needles into the burglar or attacker, giving him an extremely painful shock. Tasers are so effective, they cause those hit by it to lose control of their muscles for a minute or two as the shock pulses through their body. And the best part? Non-lethal.

But Tasers are expensive. Heck, they aren't even legal in some countries. In the United States, you can carry a Taser without a permit in 43 states. However, in countries such as Brazil, Tasers are illegal.

How would you like a low grade Taser that you can make in 5 minutes?

Disclaimer: I am not responsible for any harm or damage caused to anyone by use of electrical shock. Do not use this device on anyone unless your life or property is threatened.

Here we go!

Making a "Taser" is surprisingly easy. You only need one thing, and it can be purchased almost everywhere.

This unassuming, innocent device hides a dark secret in its circuits. May I present, the Disposable Camera.

Yes, the same disposable camera that tourists use for 25 pictures and then dump in a trash can.

Disposable cameras can actually made into a whole slew of personal weaponry, but for today we'll just focus on the Taser.

As always, you will also need a Screw driver (WITH insulated handle!) and electrical tape.

First off, pry the camera apart, removing the plastic shell. Find the circuit board inside. It should be green tinged, with a large black cylinder on one end. DO NOT TOUCH THE CYLINDER. Guess what that is? If you guessed Capacitor, you are correct. These cameras use a powerful capacitor to run the flash. 

You should see two pins on either side of the capacitor. Take your screwdriver (Make sure you are touching only the insulated handle, not the metal!) and short the capacitor by touching both pins to the metal. You might see some sparks, that's OK. Once the capacitor is empty, remove the battery. Now it is safe to remove the circuit board. 

Once you have the board out, locate both the battery holder and the trigger. The trigger is a round, shiny circle in the center of the board. Remove the flash bulb. Cover the entire circuit in electrical tape except the battery holder and the capacitor (Mark where the trigger is for future use). 

Optional: Buy a better, Lithium-Ion Battery for longer and better use of your taser.

Great, you are done! That easy? Yup, it is. Make sure you can't accidentally touch any of the metal circuit parts to avoid a shock yourself. 

Ready to use it? Excellent.

Replace the battery. Hold down the Trigger to hear a buzzing, whining noise. Once the noise stops, you are all charged up. Locate your target and give him/her a jab in the chest. They will receive a painful electric shock.

Remember, this is a cheap disposable camera. It's not going to have the power of an actual Taser. It won't leave your enemy twitching on the ground for five minutes (or anytime for that matter). It will, however, give a painful and stunning shock. It's a great home defense weapon against burglars. And it's cheap.

DO NOT use this device on anyone who is not threatening your life or property. It's really... cruel. So don't do it. 

Always make sure to short the capacitor, remove the battery, and place in a container (non conductive) before storing.

Enjoy!

Questions? Use the comment function!

How to make a portable EMP-Proof Container

In 1945, the most devastating weapon ever built was used. A United States Bomber dropped the Atom Bomb over the Japanese city of Hiroshima. The bomb destroyed everything in its path, incinerating those close and killing anything within range with deadly Gamma Rays and Alpha/Beta radiation.

But the Atomic Bomb released another danger. It did not affect much in the 1945 explosion. Nowadays, it would be almost as bad as the other dangers.

Atomic Bombs release EMP. EMP stands for Electromagnetic Pulse. EMPs destroy electronics. They can either shut off the device, wipe it's memory, or kill it depending on the power.

An EMP is a concentrated blast of electromagnetic waves (usually microwaves or radio waves).

But EMPs are not only in Nuclear weapons. All electronics release tiny EMPs while running. However, these are so small they do not affect anything.

EMPs are being developed for use in military technologies. Imagine every computer, phone, and server dying all at once. Not to mention life support units in hospitals. Yeah. It's scary. Did I mention you can make a short range EMP for about $10 worth or supplies? More on that at a later date.

Anyway, if an EMP weapon is ever used, you will lose anything that uses a circuit. That's no fun. Maybe you have important files. Pictures? Maybe even a mobile survival guide on your flash stick.

Today I will show you how to make a EMP Protection Box. Granted, if a H-Bomb explodes on your front porch, it won't work. But this should protect from smaller or further off EMPs.

The goal behind this is to create a Faraday cage. If you did some research, you will find that this is the same concept behind the RFID Foil Blocker.

Let's get to work!

Materials needed.

First off, you need a metal box. This guide will be showing you how to make a small, portable Anti-EMP box, but just scale it up if you need a bigger one.

This can be anything from a Sardine Tin...

...to an Altoids Case...

...or anything else completely metal. Whatever you use, it needs to be 100% encased in metal.

Now, take your USB Flash Stick with your protected files on it. Password ones are nice.

First of all, ensure that your metal container is completely surrounded by BARE metal. This means that if there is any paint on the outside (*cough* Altoids), it needs to go. Scrape it off with a screwdriver or something.

The EMP will conduct around the container. Now, get an insulator. My preference is Electrical Tape and Foam. Cover the entire inside of the box with electrical tape (Remember: None on the outside!). This will prevent the EMP from conducting right through the metal into your Files (Kind of ruins the purpose of the project to do that, doesn't it?). As an added precaution, take some Foam and stick it to the top and bottom of the box. If you don't have foam, no worries. It's not mandatory, and you can always use cardboard or another insulator. 

Place your USB Drive right into the center of the Container. Make sure it is not touching any metal or is likely to touch metal.

Close the box, and cover it in aluminum foil. Again, this is an added precaution. Remember the RFID Blocker? Same idea.

Speaking of RFIDs, you could probably block one in your EMP-proof case as well.

And... that's all. Congratulations, your files are almost EMP proof!

Why do I say almost? Well, this setup will most likely resist a small EMP, like the handhelds (yes they exist). Or, if an EMP bomb is detonated near you in the far future, this will hold out if the bomb is far enough away. 

It's not perfect, but it does give you a little added protection that could save your files.

Enjoy!

Helpful Hint: You can install an offline version of Wikipedia for around 8GB on your Flash Stick. This lets you look up anything in Wikipedia without an Internet Connection. I recommend it.

Questions? Use the comment function!

Creating your Fake Identity

The Internet has brought the world to our desktops. You can talk to people in America, Germany, South Korea, China, Israel, and Russia from your couch. News is delivered in seconds. If a massive earthquake strikes in a far off nation, the world knows in less than a minute.

The Internet has also brought another thing: A lack of security.

Your very identity is at risk. Your name is at risk. You take a name, and odds are you can find everything from the person's location to their hobbies.

It's a scary world out there, and have an open identity is extremely dangerous. Your name is the key to your location (even your address!), your documents, your E-mail, your friends, your hobbies, your interests, and even your bank account! The thief doesn't even have to be a hacker. Anyone who knows how to use Google can do this to you.

I am a firm believer in not using Social Networks such as Facebook, Twitter, and Google + (I only use Google + on this account for the purposing of spreading this blog). Think of the power these entities have over you and your family. If Facebook wanted too, they could sell your information to anyone they wanted too, who would then have that same power over you. Millions and millions of people use these sites and clearly know nothing about identity security.

And it doesn't stop there. Here's proof of the risks. When I was researching the Laser project mentioned in Post #2, I stopped by a number of websites compiling information, along with figuring out the cost of similar manufactured lasers. Guess what? I now receive a large number of ads for Laser companies. NOTHING YOU SAY IS SECURE. Nothing you say can ever be deleted from the Internet.

Another scary example also involves adverts. I often see these ads on the side of my E-mail account: WOMAN IN (MY TOWN) DISCOVERS AGING CURE. When I use that same computer in a different town, I get the exact same ad but with a different town name. Think they can't track you? Think again.

This guide will instruct you on how to create a fake identity for yourself. Your identity is your most treasured possession. Our name defines us. If you are not careful, you will be tracked. Ad companies most likely already know what you like to do and where you live.

Remember, your name is the key to the vault of your information, but if you do not post that information it will not be in the "vault". Once you post something, it's on the Internet forever. If you never post it, it is not. Ever. You don't have to go total-incognito, so long as you keep your information close to your heart. Although it is not recommended, you can release your real name from time to time so long as that is the only thing you release.

I have used a fake identity for as long as I have used this great invention called the Internet. Here are my tips for you.

Name: Come up with a new name for yourself. Your Internet identity can have whatever name you choose. As you can tell, mine is Proteus. Just make sure your fake name is different from your real name (Duh).

Address: You should also invent an address. It should not be your real address, unless using a trusted service such as Google or Apple. While it will still be out there, it is less of a risk than giving out your real address every time it is asked for.

ZIP Code: Find a new ZIP Code to correspond with your Address.

Location: I like to use the same state I live in. It is easier to remember, and still very vague. A jailbroken iPhone with Firewall IP will also allow you to protect your location on the go. (Or just location settings OFF).

Gender: Doesn't matter. Male or Female, whatever you want. I personally find it a bit... creepy... to imitate someone of the other gender, but hey, it's your choice. For some reason, GMail has an option to set your Gender as "Other". Despite how strange that is, feel free to pick it.

Birth Date: Probably keep the same year, but change the day and month.

Interests: This is a gray zone. You can either use your real interests, or you can use fake ones. It doesn't matter, but you will be slightly more secure using fake interests. The only annoying thing is, if you (for example) post that your like lasers, you will get laser ads. Some of those ads might actually be interesting. But if you say that you enjoy designing shoes (no offense to shoe designers) you may find yourself with loads of shoe ads that you really don't care about.

Remember to store these ON PAPER. More secure than a document.

Lastly, decide if you want to admit if you have a fake identity. As you can see, I have shared that this is fake with you. You don't have too.

Above all, I do not recommend Facebook or Twitter to anyone hoping to protect their identity. I realize I am 1 in 100 on this topic, but that is my opinion. Of course, it is always your choice.

If this is too difficult (although it shouldn't be), you can always use the cheater method. www.fakenamegenerator.com will give you a fake name, address, and loads of other stuff.

On one final note: It is never too late to protect your identity, but the longer you go with your real name the less security you have. I am proud to say that my name has less than 10 results if thrown up in Google, and even less than that give any information on me. You can probably find my month and day of birth along with my approximate location. I recommend you try to be the same.

Questions? Use the comment function!

Copper Plated Nail

Everyone loves nails.

What better to pound into a board with a hammer? But what about a copper plated nail?

Yes, a copper plated nail is probably the most useless invention known to man. If you use it, the copper will probably scrape off. However, it's pretty fun to make. No wiring or hacking involved. A six year old can do this very relaxing project.

Today's project is very laid back and easy to understand, and it involves creating this elusive copper plated nail.

You will need the following.

10-20 United States Pennies. They must be the dull kind. Newer, shiny pennies will not work. It needs to be the dull, darker colored, older ones from before the late 1980s. Trust me, they aren't hard to find. For obvious reasons, the 1943 steel pennies from WWII will not work either.

A couple of lemons (limes will probably work as well, but I haven't tested them).

Container, any material.

Steel Wool

Squeeze out the lemons into the container. Now, dump the pennies into the container. Make sure that the lemon juice completely covers the pennies.

Grab your steel nail and give it a rinse under the faucet. Take your steel wool and scrub the nail vigorously for a minute or two. This removes the oxidation that has built up on your nail. This is always required: Oxygen reacts with nearly everything. After scrubbing, rinse off the nail one last time. Once it is nice and clean, drop it in the lemon/penny solution. Again, make sure it is completely submerged. If not, add more lemon juice.

Go to sleep. Seriously, all you have to do now is leave it overnight, so feel free to take a nap. In 5-12 hours, it will be finished. To check, simply remove the nail from the juice. If it has a shiny copper colored sheen, you are finished.

Here's how it works: The highly acidic lemon juices dissolves the copper off of the old pennies (new pennies use so little copper that you can't even plate the nail). It then deposits it on the clean nail. If it still had its oxidation cover, this would not work.

When all is said and done, you are left with an interesting and shiny copper nail. Hang it on your wall or something.

Questions? Use the Comment function!

How to Modify a Laser Pointer into a Burning Laser

WARNING: Lasers are dangerous. Always wear correct protective eye-wear.  I am not responsible for any damage caused.

If you are reading this, you've probably read my older post regarding lasers. While very cool to make your own laser from salvaged parts along with some circuit parts, this is very time consuming. Including shipping, it can take upwards of a month, if you do it leisurely.

There is another way. Making this burning laser will cost around $20, but is extremely easy. No wiring, extracting, or testing diodes needed. However, this laser will have a much shorter lifetime than the more homemade version described a few days ago. This project will turn a 5mW laser into a 100mW laser.

Remember, this laser can, and will, damage your eyes.

Ready? Let's get to work.

You will need to buy a Laser Pointer. Green is best, but red lasers will often work as well. However, I warn you: Not all Laser Pointers will work. I will detail this later in the blog, so I recommend you read the whole post before going out and buying a pointer. However, get a good one at Office Depot or something. Don't buy the 99 cent, cheap-o, inch long pointers. That for sure won't work.

Get this:

Not this:

Take your laser pointer out of the package and ensure that it works. If it doesn't, replace the batteries. If it still doesn't work, you may want to return it for a new one.

Now, remove the batteries to ensure it will not accidentally turn on. Ensure that you have laser safety glasses. MAKE SURE that they are tuned to the correct wavelength as the laser you are using (Red=600-700nm, etc.). Find the seam down the edge of the pointer where it comes apart. It is probably super glued, so you may need a screwdriver to pry it apart. Make sure not to break anything.

If all goes well, it will pop right off. If any wires or circuits came undone, just be sure to solder them back on later. Now, you should see the laser diode (probably in a case) and the driver circuit. Believe me, these things are not large. The circuit is less then an inch across. At this point you will be able to determine if your pointer is mod-able. Look at the driver. It will probably have a lot of small parts, along with a big button, which is what you press to turn the laser on. What you are looking for a something resembling a screw. If you don't see it, flip it over. If you still don't see it, you are out of luck. Not all laser pointers have this.

The "screw" is actually a tiny potentiometer. When in the factory, these laser pointers are set to 5mW (the basic setting for most laser pointers). But remember, this is a potentiometer. What do these do? They let you increase the power, for lack of a better word.

Make sure your protective goggles are on. Replace the batteries. Hold down on the button to shine the laser on the wall. Now, begin to twist the potentiometer with your screwdriver. The laser should be getting brighter (Remember, NEVER look directly at a laser. Watch the point on the wall.). If it is not moving, DO NOT strain it. Try going the other way. If you press too hard you could break it.

Keep turning the Potentiometer until your laser is at its maximum brightness. Turn it off and reassemble your laser, taking care not to damage anything. Once you have done this, you are finished. To do a final test, shine the laser straight ahead and use a piece of paper to find the smallest point. You should be able to light matches and slowly burn things at this range.

Remember: Always wear glasses tuned to the correct wavelength. NEVER shine the laser into the eyes of any person OR animal. It's really cruel and you can be sent to jail. Lastly, do not use the laser in a place where other people who are not wearing goggles can see it.

A final note: Using a pointer like this will greatly diminish the lifetime of your laser. So, if you want your laser to live a long life, don't do this to it. Think of it as eating too much salt: It tastes great, but it will give you some health problems if you keep eating it in large amounts. It is also possible to reverse this process: Simply disassemble the laser again and do everything backwards.

Enjoy!

Questions? Use the comment function!

How to stop RFIDs

They are everywhere. In our clothes, our phones, our computers, our credit cards, our passports. Some magazines carry them, along with some shoes. No, I'm not talking about fleas, chickens, or the IRS, I'm talking about RFIDs.

RFID (Radio Frequency Identification) is a microchip used to transmit radio information. They can be used to broadcast information and even track the wearer.

RFIDs are extremely cheap. Due to this, companies have begun putting them into everything they can get their hands on. Yes, even some of our shirts and underwear are microchipped. Of course, all RFIDs are not created equal. Below is an RFID:

Most RFIDs just carry information, but some can actually track you. In a particularly scary recent event, a school district in Texas is trying to force its students to wear a RFID Student ID at all times. Not only do you have to use it to get in to the school, they can track you ANYWHERE. They claim it's to reduce truancy, but honestly, would you want some crazy school district watching your every move?



But information only RFIDs can be just as bad. You probably have a wallet filled with credit cards, and somewhere you might have a passport stashed. Guess what? A thief with an RFID reader (easily obtained or built) can walk by you and snatch your ID, credit card numbers, and loads of other personal information. Passports contain all their information on an RFID, so these can also be stolen indirectly. Yes, Credit Cards have encryption, but it is easily broken.

In response to these crimes of identity theft, many companies have begun releasing "RFID Blocking Wallets". These claim to block RFID transmissions. The issue is, they cost anywhere from $20 to $50. I don't know many people who want to have to pay money just because the passport makers want to be all high-tech.

Well, you don't have to pay anymore.

First of all, you can simply destroy the microchip. This is easily accomplished: Put the item in question in the microwave for 5-10 seconds and it will melt the RFID, destroying its capabilities. This works great on most stuff, but there a few that won't. If you destroy a Student ID Card you won't be able to enter the school. Microwaving a Credit Card is likely to break both the card and the RFID. Lastly, destroying a Passport RFID is illegal in the United States. So, this method is not foolproof.

But, you can block it. A blocked Credit Card will stop a thief in his tracks, as will the passport. Tracker ID Cards most likely won't let up a red flag if they are blocked outside of the school and only removed to unlock the door.

Here's how.

It's amazingly simple. It literally requires pennies worth of supplies. It's called... Aluminum foil.

Contrary to popular belief, Aluminum foil DOES NOT completely block an RFID. It does, however, greatly decrease the range an RFID reader needs to be to read the microchip. More layers, more protection. So, let's get to work!

You will need some duct tape and a 2 large sheets of aluminum foil.

Take the sheets and fold them each into a thicker square of foil. Now, use the duct tape to connect the sides and bottom to each other. If you want it to last longer, cover the outside and possibly the inside of the pouch with more duct tape. This will give the pouch strength and will greatly increase its lifetime.

Here is my Anti RFID Pouch. Hey, I didn't say it would be pretty, but it works.


And, you are done. Very simple but very useful project. This will give you a very short range needed to read the RFID, making it less likely that a thief will ever get you. You can stick your credits cards in the pouch, or create a larger pouch and put your phone in it. Remember, make sure that the pouch is completely lined with foil. This setup gives you 3-4 layers of foil with minimal effort.

Questions? Use the comment function!

Jailbreaking: Pros and Cons

One of the most successful and useful devices of the last few years has been the iPhone. Filled with thousands of features, Apple's iPhone has found its way into millions of people's pockets.

When you first get an iPhone, you are blown away by the amount of features. A computer in your pocket, a portable gaming device, a navigational GPS device, and even a weather predictor. However, eventually you may want more.

If you are familiar with Apple and their products (Namely the Mac Computers and iPod/iPhone/iPad devices), then you know how restrictive they are. While OS like Linux allow for major modifications, iOS (the iPhone OS) is kept under lock and key. You can only access Apple-approved Apps, and can not modify any of the firmware of the iPhone. For those hardcore hackers out there (or even just curious persons), this is not enough. Some esteemed hackers released the answer: The Jailbreak.

"Jailbreaking" your i-Device involves reprogramming the device's firmware to allow for installation of 3rd Party, non Apple-approved apps. This gives you access to the Cydia store. Cydia is basically the black market version of the App Store. Almost nothing is restricted here and the hated 1-2 week update period is not enforced within Cydia.

Now, a big question is this: Is jailbreaking even legal? The answer is, Yes. Much to Apple's protest, the United States allows jailbreaking to be done without ever breaking any law.

But what jailbreaking DOES do is void your warranty. Although it is technically possible to revert to an old state, you probably should not jailbreak if you want to maintain your warranty.

Here's the Pros/Cons of Jailbreaking for those of you on the edge.

Pros:
Allows purchase/download of 3rd party apps allowing features not accepted or endorsed by Apple.

Lack of 1-2 week update period.

Lets hackers mess with their iPhone's electronic guts to modify it.

Can rollback software upgrades.

Themes

Cons:
Voids Warranty on your device. If you break it, well, I feel bad for you.

*Small* possibility of installing a malicious app. Pretty much any app is accepted to Cydia. It is possible that a virus or such might make it in. However, the chance of this is microscopic as people can report viruses to Cydia and have them quickly removed. I have never had a virus from a Cydia app or known a friend who has, so this is a very minor and unlikely issue. I felt I had to mention it, though.

If you happen to unplug your device during the jailbreak process you could "Brick" it. Bricking is a general term for accidentally breaking your iPhone by an incomplete firmware modification, etc. Unplugging your iPhone during the firmware modification could turn your iPhone into an expensive brick, hence the name.

Disclaimer: I am not responsible for any harm caused to your device due to jailbreaking.

If you don't plan on jailbreaking, you can close this page. The rest of this is just tips and guidelines on how to actually do it, as it can be confusing from time to time.

If you do, I have some useful tips for you.

First of all, find out what your iDevice's iOS Version is. You will also need to know what model your device is (iPhone 5, iPad 2, iPod Touch 2G, etc). Now, plug this into Google: "How to jailbreak [Insert model] [Insert device] with [Insert iOS Version]". I would love to give you the perfect jailbreaker but there are dozens of them. Each one is geared towards certain iOS versions or devices, so find one that works for you.

REMEMBER: If anyone offers you a paid jailbreak software, IT IS A SCAM! All Jailbreak programs are developed for free use by anyone for no profit. Paying for a jailbreak program is just wasting money.

Plug your iDevice into your Computer. Open up your download and run the correct file. Follow the on screen instructions, and remember: DO. NOT. UNPLUG. I am not responsible for any damage caused by unplugging your device during the process. This CAN and WILL break your Phone, and it's possibly it will be permanent. Just leave it in, if you change your mind you can always reverse the jailbreak later.

Once finished, make sure it really is finished to avoid the dreaded brick. Then, reboot your device and enjoy.

To get Cydia, open the new Loader app you see on your home screen and click download Cydia.

Here's a couple things you can do with your new hacked device:

Themes. Themes will change the graphics of your app icons and backgrounds. You can find loads of free themes in Cydia. Below is "Atomic Glow".

Apps. Like I said before, lots of fun and useful apps. Here's some recommendations.

Fake Location: Simple free app that fakes your location. If you live in America you can use this app to tell all your other apps that you live in Svalbard or the middle of the Atlantic Ocean. Good for privacy.

Firewall IP: Once installed, it will begin to run in the background whenever you open an app. When an app tries to access something from the device (Files, Maps, Location, etc.), Firewall will open a popup telling what the app wants to access. You can then deny, allow, or always allow. It's great for seeing what those apps really do... Why should an arcade game need to know your location?

Tracking: I actually don't use this, but I feel it deserves a mention. There are lots of tracking apps out there that will literally allow you to track ANYTHING another iPhone does. All you do is install the the tracker on the device you wish to track (They can run incognito) and you can view every Text message, Voicemail, Keystroke typed, picture taken, and the location of the phone at any time. The plus side of this allows you to track down a thief and take pictures of him remotely, or wipe your device if you can't get it back. The really creepy side of this app is that you can track everything it does. Although it would require a lot of effort, getting this app on your phone would let the owner of the tracker see EVERY LITTLE THING you do.


PanicRoom: App for the paranoid part of all of us. Allows you to quickly wipe pretty much everything from browser data to WiFi networks at any time.


Activator: One of the best apps. Allows you to program what patterns do what. So, with this app I can make the home button turn off the device instead of taking me to the home screen and instead link Home Screen to the volume button.

Over a thousand Utilities: Utilities let you mod your iPhone in every way possible. I can't even begin to list them all, but a notable one allows you to add an extra app to your dock.

SBSettings: App that lets you access your Settings function and more from a quick drop down menu.

Future Mail: Pretty useless I'll admit, but a fun addition. This app lets you send a message to any email address anytime in the future. It can be used as a time capsule device.

That's all for now, I hope that this enlightened you on the concept of jailbreaking.

Questions? Use the comment function!

How to Make a Laser

Lasers. Straight out of every Sci-Fi book and movie, these interesting beams of light seem like something only a factory can make. Not so. You too can make your very own laser, using many cheap parts that may even be lying around your house.

WARNING: If used incorrectly, Lasers can potentially blind/damage your eyesight. I will be posting warnings throughout this post, please heed them. I am not responsible for any damage caused to eyesight by using lasers and ignoring warnings.You have been warned.

First of all, let's review the Laser concept.

L.A.S.E.R. stands for Light Emission by Stimulated Emission of Radiation. Lasers work, basically, like this:

1. A substance (usually a gas, although crystal lasers are made as well) is heated to the point where it begins to emit Photons. This substance is held in a tube.

2. The Photons reflect off mirrors on either side of the tube.

3. Eventually, the focused Photons will break through one of the mirrors and the actual laser beam will emit from the front of the tube.

Although Lasers are used in multiple types of light, we will be focusing on the Visible Spectrum.

Quick Review: The Visible Spectrum of Light varies for each person, but generally extends from around 380 nm (Violet) to around 700 nm (Red).

Red (600-700 nm) are some of the most common lasers. They are also some of the easiest to obtain.

Now, here we go!

First of all, we need a Laser Diode. Laser Diodes are tiny. Now, don't even think about making your own diode. Ain't gonna happen. These things are made by precision machines. Luckily, they aren't very hard to find, if you know where to look! Below is an image of a Diode:

You will need an old DVD Writer. Blu-Ray works as well (you will have a violet laser instead of red, but it does work). You can extract one from an old computer. Remember, WRITER, NOT READER. Also, the Writer must have AT LEAST 16X Writing Speed. If you use a Reader, or anything less than 16X Speed, you will end up with a weak red laser. Still cool, but you want a burning one don't you? Of course you do.

Grab your favorite screwdriver and begin the operation. Remove the plate on the back of the writer and pretty much rip out any circuit board under that until you see the sled. It has a lens on the front of it, and it looks strangely like an eye. Mine is in about 300 different pieces, so I can't post a photo, but it is in the very center of the Writer on two metal rod. Anyway, remove one of the rods and extract the Sled.

You are done with the Writer now. If you are an extreme DIYer, there are 2-3 engines you can find and remove from the corpse of the Writer.

Get the smallest screwdriver you can find. Literally, it needs to be tiny. The sled consists of lots of small (very small) screws, usually glued in. Remove every screw you possibly can, some won't come out, but get most of them. Remove any parts you can. There will be TWO diodes, and they will not look like the above picture at first. There will be three pins on each one, with solder connecting them to something resembling a circuit board.  They are attached to a small metal heat-sink and the lens on glass end will be facing the series of mirrors and lenses focusing the beams to the center lens of the sled. Now, this is where it gets tough.

You need Solder wick, a Soldering Iron, and Pliers. Place the Solder wick directly on top of the three pins. Heat up the wick and remove all of the solder off both of the diodes. Remove the circuit-board-like thing from the pins. BE CAREFUL, those pins MUST stay intact. The more you can keep on the better. Once it is off (you may need to use forceps to wrestle it off, eventually it will come, just keep at it), you will need to remove the heat-sinks. There is an opaque glue connecting them to the sled. Insert your screwdriver (smaller the better) on the glue and pry it off. Try to go under the base on the glue. Once all 4 corners are off, remove the heat-sink/diode. Get both of them off.

Now, this is the hardest part. If you are doing it right, it still seems like you are going to break the diode. Do not be afraid, but do not be reckless either. Take your pliers in your hand. You may need wire cutters. Press down on the heat-sink on one of the sides. If you need a vise or other support, use it. Eventually, the heat-sink will split in half and the diode will pop off. It's tough, but don't worry, I didn't break any of mine ;)

Congratulations, you now have TWO laser diodes! There are some fine optics in the sled if you are willing to extract them. If not, dump it with the rest of the Writer. One diode is an invisible infrared diode. The other is a visible red burning diode. Be warned, the Infrared diode CAN STILL DAMAGE YOUR EYES. If you used a reader or writer < 16X Writing speed, the burning diode will be a weak red diode instead. I had a way to tell by what lenses were near which diodes on the sled, but sadly I completely forgot and the sled is no longer intact (Hey, it happens). Set these diodes aside, preferably in Anti Static pouches (You don't have too though). Time for the circuit!

Although technically it can be done, do not "direct drive". Direct driving involves hooking up a diode directly to a battery or other power source. This will usually kill your diode. Thus, you will need a circuit to regulate your power.

You will need the following parts:

LM317T
Switch (Any will work, I used a switch but a button works equally well)
Potentiometer, 100 ohm (It can vary, but keep on track as much as possible)
10 ohm resistors (You need two of these)
Board (PCB Boards work excellent for this)
WIRE (Duh)
47uf35v Capacitor
1N4001 Rectifier Diode
5/6 Volt Power Source

This will cost around ~$20 on DigiKey, Mouser, or other part supplier.

You will also of course need more solder and your trusty soldering iron.
Now, let's first look at the laser diode itself.

Align the pins as shown and identify each one. Refer to the above chart if you need too.

Circuit Time! 

One of the many guides I used in constructing my laser was this: http://showsyouhow.blogspot.com/2007/12/diy-dvd-burner-laser-pointer-proper-way_18.html
The author of that page has an excellent graphic showing how to make your circuit, and I recommend you follow the instructions there. If for some reason that link doesn't work... Well here you go, text instructions!

Place the LM317T face up on the table. The far left pin needs to connect to the POSITIVE laser diode pin, but do not do the diode connection until last. Along the way it needs to connect to the 2 Resistors, the Capacitor, and the Rectifier Diode.

Lay your potentiometer face up with the pins facing you. The middle pin of the LM317T needs to connect to the far right AND middle pins of the potentiometer. Then, connect a wire from the left potentiometer pin too the other end of the two resistors.

Connect the last (right) to the POSITIVE end of the batteries. Lastly, run a wire from the negative power end to the negative diode pin, connecting to the capacitor and rectifier diode along the way.

Connect a Switch either on the main positive or negative rail.

If that way a little confusing, please use the graphic in the above link.




Is your circuit finished? Great! Now we need the 6 Volt power source.

I used a 4 D Battery tray, but you can even use an old Computer power supply if you want (although that may require extra modification). Pick up a Project Box (You know, the plastic black boxes with screws in the corners.) Make sure it is big enough to fit your entire Circuit.

Connect the wires leading from the D Batteries to their respective positions. DO NOT PUT BATTERIES IN YET. This is just an added safety precaution, and I never have the batteries in my laser when it's not in use, even when off.

Take the project box and drill two holes in the top: One for the potentiometer and one for the switch. Make sure they fit snugly. Insert the parts into the holes you drilled and screw them in with the parts it came with. You probably need a wrench for this. Make sure they are in tightly.

Now, put the lid on and tighten the screws, right? WRONG. Do not close it until you have verified it works (NOT YET, DO NOT turn it on.)

Ah, the hardest part. It is at this point where you are most likely to ruin your diodes. So, BE CAREFUL.

Take your soldering iron and solder the positive wire to the positive pin and the negative wire to the negative pin. Again, be careful: Too much heat will snap the pins (I learned this the hard way). Also, do not short out the circuit against the base of the diode. Apply it as fast as possible without rushing so as to not weaken the pins.

Phew, finished? Great.

If you chose correctly and picked the red diode, you are done with the solder. If you chose the infrared, you will to remove it and place the red diode instead. And there is only one way to tell. Test it!

Okay. Do you have Laser protection glasses? They need to be the kind that can resist the type of light the red diode is emitting (600-700 nm).

SAFETY WARNING!

1. If you do not use glasses, you are an idiot and should not be building a laser. These things can BLIND you. How would you feel never seeing again, EVER? Wear protection glasses.

2. NEVER stare directly into the laser diode. This could blind you even with the glasses on. Don't be stupid. This is probably common sense but I feel obliged to warn you.

That being said, I take no responsibility for any damage caused to yourself or other persons for not following instructions. Please go up and memorize the two safety steps. So you don't forget. When you are done, read on.






Read the safety rules again.




Alright. I hope you read the safety rules. Now, you will need a Laser Module. A company called AixiZ makes these, or you can just buy on EBay, whichever is cheaper. If you don't know, a module is a small shiny tube that holds the diode. It also contains a lens to focus the laser. They generally cost around $5.

Once your module arrives, do not do anything with it. We have testing to do.

Take your circuit connected to the diode along with 4 D Batteries (Not in the tray). Go into a small, dark room (lock on the door is best so someone doesn't accidentally walk in and damage their eyes) and set up a piece of white paper against the wall. Make sure the switch is off. Put your goggles on, and point the diode at the paper. And... Drumroll... Flip the switch.

If you see a red glow on the paper, you are set! Of course it will not burn anything yet, it isn't focused. If you see nothing, move the paper closer. If you see a faint white dot, turn it off! You did not choose wisely and rigged the Infrared. If this happens to you, remove the infrared diode and solder the other one into place.

If you see nothing, nothing at all, it could be one of two things. It could just be the infrared, or it could be that your circuit is wired wrong. Double check everything. If you need too, use a Voltmeter to detect if your circuit is indeed running.

Is your red diode glowing brightly? Excellent. Mess with the potentiometer if you want too. Now, turn off the circuit and remove one or more batteries, just in case.

You will need to obtain a vise and your module. Flip the back end of the diode and place the small hole over the diode so that the pins are sticking out. Place the other module section with the small hole over the pins. Push it together with the vise (keep it straight!) until the diode is snug inside the lens section of the module (the small end). Chop the wires connecting your diode to the rest of your circuit in half and slip the wires through the small hole in the back of the module. Screw the module back together so that the wires are leading out of the hole. Now, solder the wires back to the circuit and wrap electrical tape around the soldered part. Make sure everything is ready. IT'S TIME!!!

Replace your goggles and make sure that nobody will walk in and accidentally look at the laser.

Put the D Batteries back in, and flip the switch. If all went well you should have a laser! Now, turn the lens to focus the laser. Move the paper close and far to find the point where the point the laser makes is smallest. Place a match I that spot and it will burn.

Remember, this is a dangerous device. Do not use it unless everyone present has protection glasses tuned to that wavelength. And NEVER shine it into the eyes of people OR animals.

My Laser:

Enjoy your homemade laser!

Questions? Use the comment section and I'll do my best to answer.

Welcome to MakeTech

Welcome to the MakeTech Blog. Here, I will be discussing lots of (in my opinion) interesting, rewarding, and down right cool things you can make or program in your spare time. Sounds intriguing? Stay tuned for the first entry!